Robert Johnson, B.B.King and Robert Belfour – In One Day!

Read about our blues-infused day in and around Clarksdale MS



Cypress Lake

For the second night running we abandoned plans to have ribs at Abe’s. We had picked up quite a few snacks and drinks so we spent an hour or three on Sandra’s porch last night – nibbling, sipping and slapping mosquitos. A delightful evening, only spoilt by the “wine” I had purchased a little time ago.

Now I wasn’t expecting much, but there were a number of negative elements of the bottle I opened:

– it was actually not wine but “wine product”
– it tasted like sour apple juice
– it looked like urine
– it was 5% proof.

Luckily, thanks to my friends, there were other goodies in the fridge that were available until closing time and the need to rest for the exciting day ahead tomorrow.

A morning freight train pulled alongside The Shack Up Inn to start the day.

We then headed to Yazoo Pass (again) for breakfast – the french toast and coffee an excellent beginning – in fact the best coffee on the trip so far.

Heading toward Greenwood we stopped to enjoy the cypress trees in a lake just south of Clarksdale (see above) and Jenny and I marveled as to how short Richard and Sandra looked all of a sudden.


Then to Greenwood via the Tallahatchie Bridge – we didn’t see Billy Joe McAllister but we espied Jenny.



Then to the small cemetery outside Greenwood on Money Road alongside The Little Zion Church, where Robert Johnson was in all likelihood buried – there is certainly a significant and oft-visited head stone to that effect (in fact it has brought me here a third time).


A quick and enjoyable lunch and book browsing at Turn Row Books and we motored off to nearby Indianola where the relatively recently constructed B.B. King Museum is located.

It was my first visit here, very detailed and excellent displays and easily accessible history. There is a fine video series that you can hone in on if you are not into a long stop. At $12 admission it was good value – I enjoyed it thoroughly and would highly recommend it to any serious blues fan.



A fifty mile trip back to Clarksdale – an hour to freshen up. Abe’s BBQ (finally) for pork ribs, gravy, cabbage and beans – and a rush to Red’s.

Tonight Robert Belfour is playing – on his 74th birthday!

The gathering sang Happy Birthday – Belfour played an intense and authentic set – we couldn’t get any closer. A break came at 11.20 – we were tired and the cigarette smoke wore us down.

What a great blues-infused day.

Tomorrow, we turn our noses north to Memphis.



Read about our blues-infused day in and around Clarksdale MS

Read about our blues-infused day in and around Clarksdale MS

Read about our blues-infused day in and around Clarksdale MS


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Author: Rob Dickens

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